Just be sure to Google a disassembly guide for your specific graphics card model before you start tearing your precious, pricey hardware apart willy-nilly. “For a 20-minute project with a $35 bracket, that’s not bad.” “I saw significant reduction in heat and noise by going with liquid, and none of the throttling I saw on air cooling,” hardware editor Gordon Mah Ung wrote after using a Corsair bracket to attach a CPU closed-loop liquid cooler to a reference Radeon R9 290. We’ve got a guide to water-cooling your GPU, and hot-running enthusiasts with nothing to lose might find the upgrade worthwhile. If you really wanted to get adventurous in your quest for lower temperatures, you could swap out your graphics card’s cooling system for a liquid-cooling option while you’ve got it disassembled, though it’s overkill for most people. Our guide to making your old graphics card run like new is several years old, but the basic technique still applies to today’s GPUs. You could try to replace it if all else fails, though the process is highly technical, varies card-by-card, and voids the hell out of your warranty. And sometimes, graphics cards ship with poor thermal paste application, though it’s very rare. Our guide to picking the perfect PC case can help.įinally, sometimes the thermal paste between the GPU and the heatsink can become dry and lose its effectiveness, most commonly in graphics cards that are many years old. Even larger cases can strangle airflow if they’re poorly designed, however. If you have a particularly small case, and your graphics card keeps overheating and shutting down, consider upgrading to a more spacious model. Small form factor systems can deliver a big punch these days, but the constrained space can send hardware temperatures skyrocketing.
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But that is NOT intended to be used for general case cooling.Your hot graphics card could cool down in a more spacious case. So IF you mount a fan in your case side that draws in outside cool air and directs it toward the graphics card to aid in its cooling efforts, then power and control of that particular fan is best done from the fan output on the graphics card. Now, the on-card fan draws air from its immediate surroundings to cool the card components. These send out to any fan connected the same fan control signals used by the on-card fans to cool the card. SOME graphics cards also include "standard" 4-pin fan sockets on them. Actually, there is no "standard" way to do that, although many graphics card makers send out their temp info on some contact in the PCIe socket and use their own software utilities to let you "see" that info. The never let the mobo take control of graphics card cooling, and hence normally do not send any temperature info to the mobo. Graphics cards most commonly have their own cooling fan systems and always do their own management of those fans to keep the card's components cooled. For those particular fans you can use the special-purpose sensors, but you still should have SOME fans for general case ventilation that use the "general" sensor.
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Extra sensors are intended for use IF you have extra fans mounted and directed at particular mobo component locations (say, the VRM or North Bridge).
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There is always a "general one" located and intended by the mobo maker to be the best representation of ALL the heat removal needs of mobo components. Many mobos have more than one temperature sensor on the mobo. (There are a few cases in which one is forced to use the CPU chip sensor for case fans, but they are uncommon.) Most mobos actually do NOT have access to the temperature of any graphics card components (unless they use a non-standard design) so you normally do NOT have any option to use GPU temperature sensors for case fans. It is ideal to guide the CPU chip cooler, but not the rest of your system. Do NOT use the sensor inside the CPU chip to guide the case ventilation fans.